Burberry is the British brand that likes to demonstrate its power and greatness in all things. And why not? It is the success story of the past decade. From a dying raincoats business - not long ago known for dressing beige civil servants in matching beige coats - it has transformed itself into the world's most famous British luxury brand. Its financial figures have been on an impressive upward trajectory for years - at least, until September, when its share price slumped 19 per cent after slow second-quarter retail growth. Just as it issued its profit warning, Burberry opened its largest ever shop, a 44,000sq ft behemoth on Regent Street, London.
The beautifully crafted store, known as Burberry World Live, is designed to reflect Burberry's online experience, or, as its CEO, Angela Ahrendts, explained, 'Walking through the doors is just like walking into our website.' This is a smart approach: Burberry , with its 1.3 million Twitter followers, 14 million Facebook fans and 560,000 Instagram followers, is widely regarded as leading the luxury fashion pack into the digital era.
While I applaud them for raising the digital stakes, I have serious reservations: in a nutshell, I take issue with Burberry's claim to be a truly British brand, and I've taken to Twitter to highlight how the company has closed down the majority of its British factories in the past five years and moved production to Asia. I've spent the past year working my knickers off to bring manufacturing back to Britain, and the truth is that we can still compete, especially in the luxury market. I do not understand why Burberry will not invest in the country on which its reputation, heritage, style and brand identity is based. Unlike its rival Mulberry, which is actually opening British factories, Burberry has left a sour taste in my mouth by not being able to fly the flag with integrity, nor displaying a sense of responsibility to the country that it uses as brand leverage. But all that aside, let's see if its new shop is as good as it sounds.
The windows My first impression is one of awe, which is, of course, exactly what I am supposed to feel. No wonder - this place is said to be the result of 300,000 man hours. Each window showcases hero pieces from the autumn/winter collection and iconic products from the classic ranges. The store is vast, but thanks to a carefully curated shop floor and clever positioning of some very inviting couches, at times it feels almost cosy. Which is odd, because in the atrium a 22ft hi-res screen dominates the room, showing an arty black-and-white film of the brand's current 'weather' campaign. Five hundred speakers fill the space with sound. Naturally, as the shop is the physical manifestation of Burberry online, it's all extremely hi-tech. In the changing-rooms, the magic mirrors deserve a special mention. Some of the clothes hide computer chips, so that as you admire yourself trying on, say, a trench coat, the mirror becomes a screen and streams a film showing the garment on the runway.
Was I being served? The first members of staff I encountered were four big blokes in suits, complete with earpieces, looking like bouncers guarding a nightclub. Can anyone tell me why they are needed? Would they stop me from entering the shop if I didn't look right? Is there a dress code? Or are they there to stop me nicking a trench coat and wedging it down my (100 per cent British-made) knickers? In their defence, they were more welcoming than they first appeared. Once inside, warm acknowledgements were forthcoming from every member of staff. I decided to try out my best indecisive customer guise to test the service, and explained I was looking to buy a special present for a family member but didn't know what. The assistant talked me through the range of scarves, explaining what each one was made of and how it could be worn. I found him genuine, knowledgeable and, above all, patient.
Verdict This store demonstrates that Burberry is bombastic about everything it does, from heritage products and luxury fashion and accessories to its digital strategy. There really is nothing to criticise about this place, and it is reassuring to see that customer service has not been forgotten in all this. If innovative shopping experiences are your thing, this store certainly has the thrill factor. I would love to be able to champion Burberry as the best that Britain has to offer, because it is very good. But until they bring more manufacturing back to British shores, I'm afraid I can't.
Next week: Swindon Designer Outlet
Via: Shop! Mary Portas on Burberry
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