Snaffling Sarah Burton's masculine output from Milan is the most notable coup in this London Collections: Men schedule. Yet as the audience gingerly settled itself into the rickety chairs lining a Dickensian, East End warren of wood-panelled rooms, one question begged itself - why did McQueen ever leave London at all?
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After all, the capital is riddled with perfect backdrops for the artfully discordant brand of fashion that is McQueen's speciality.
Take this collection, which featured a cast of hollow cheeked models stalking those mournful rooms in oversized, elongated suits that made them resemble a mob of sallow gangsters. For extra jitter, some wore cinematic serial killer semi-transparent face masks. Traditional Savile Row decorations including chalk-stripe, Bengal, polka dot and Prince of Wales were cut up and rearranged into a kaleidoscope of nerdy menswear references, under Pinkie-perfect peaked shoulders.
Photos: Vladmir Potop
Monkstrapped bootlets, stained-glass jacquards, gold sleeper earrings, the odd kimono-ish shift and regimental-flashed trousers were thrown in too. Fun, sinister, and consistently impractical, it was conceptual fashion rooted in classic English menswear, and all jolly good fun to watch - although Burton's parents did sometimes look a mite nonplussed.
As the British Fashion Council's new chair Natalie Massenet observed: "this feels like old-school London Fashion Week, a bit like early Galliano."
So when will Burton bring the womenswear home too? McQueen is London-perfect.
Photos: Vladmir Potop
Via: Alexander McQueen menswear returns to London with sallow gangsters
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