Kamis, 28 Februari 2013

Paris Fashion Week: Balmain autumn/winter 2013


Paris is the grand old lady of la mode - couture was invented here, after all, and ready-to-wear too - and the local fashion elite tends to take itself immensely seriously. So bravo to Olivier Rousteing, the twenty-something enfant of the French designer syndicate, whose barmily baroque Balmain collection punctured the usual pomp today.

See the Balmain autumn/winter 2013 collection

Grid-gilded jerkins, jackets and mini dresses with shoulders broad enough to make Joan Collins - even in her Dynasty days - think twice were the silhouette-defining pieces of this collection. In silver, gold, ruby red, blue or emerald these made the wearers look like futuristic falconers as imagined by a sci-fi costume designer during the Eighties. Navel-high, eight-inch black leather cummerbund belts with gleaming gold buckles were worn above metallic, ruched at the hip trousers that shrunk from broad to narrow as they progressed from thigh to ankle. Grandiosely long crystal earrings tinkled audibly, even over the turned-up-to-11 Led Zeppelin medley, as the models walked.

READ: Balmain gets stuck in the Eighties

The high-heels on Rousteing's black boots curved like wicked fangs, and looked fearsome to wear - but the models managed to swagger down the parquet without mishap. One-shouldered mohair jumpers, outrageously deep V-neckline leather jackets with perky peplum-ettes, and one all-gold look that made me crave a Ferrero Rocher kept the high-production kitsch coming.

SEE MORE FROM PARIS FASHION WEEK

It is highly unlikely that you will ever spot any of these clothes on the streets - particularly a closing look worn by Arizona Muse whose gold on black zig-zag jacket was roomy enough to hide a bicycle under - but that isn't the point. Rousteing is carving out his own unabashedly overblown aesthetic and fearlessly stamping it onto Balmain, for good or ill - and with a sense of humour.


Via: Paris Fashion Week: Balmain autumn/winter 2013

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