Raf Simons has been installed at Dior for almost a year and his settling-in period is complete. Any previous niggles about the fit of his clothes at this house were laid to rest with this show.
This was an intelligent - and ravishing - distillation of Christian Dior's favourite signatures. The Bar Jacket (the one from his 1947 New Look) has been updated as a coat or a tuxedo dress: houndstooth (so beloved of Monsieur that it featured on the perfume packaging) was glimpsed beneath white macramé tunics and matching skirts or turned into vinyl sheaths.
New Look fit and flare coats were lifted with flashes of lemon coloured reveres, and that stalwart of Fifties ball dresses, the cascade of back-ruffles, was reworked in glossy black leather. Other Jennifer Lawrence-bound red carpet dresses included chic grey flannel, strapless cocktail dresses with a swoosh of sheer black net inserted into the full skirts.
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But for the (not so) average woman, the most wearable proposition are probably the new wider Dior trousers, (or even more likely, the classic cigarette trousers) and their matching Bar Jackets which Simons is rapidly making his.
Loose flapper-esque silk dresses, embroidered with Surrealist motifs and Warhol's shoe illustrations from the mid-Fifties when the artist worked in advertising, added to the impression that this is a designer set on making clothes that are worn as much as they are admired.
Via: Paris Fashion Week: Dior autumn/winter 2013
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