Ah, Paris: a city packed with heart-stoppingly pretty, merveilleuse mademoiselles who wear jauntily perfect clothes and sport sulky, inscrutable pouts.
This mythical Parisienne is Isabel Marant's baseline muse, and each season the designer pipes a layer of thematic icing - cowgirl, cheerleader, Hawaii, etc - onto her sportswear-meets-short, ruffly skirt French-girl formula. Refreshingly, Marant ditched that decoration for autumn/winter 2013. Supertight, layered knitwear in black, navy and cream was her daywear thesis. It looked good, and more realistic when swathed beneath understated sheepskins and oversized duffles. Most of the ensembles were monotone, with the detail in the three, sometimes four hemline levels.
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For evening, Marant's hardware-heavy embellished jackets above asphyxiatingly tight trousers, occasionally vertically bicoloured, provided the central message - via the odd aside into little printed dresses as light and sinuous as a twist of Gauloises smoke. Long, narrow scarves studded with three lines of what looked like ball bearings were worn beneath high, revere-less jackets, or three-panel knit minis. The only real mis-step in this most Maranty of Marant collections was a stupid look in which a black and grey bodyless jumper and black, gauze and ball bearing topped were combined to create an excruciatingly transparent nipple-window.
Via: Paris Fashion Week: Isabel Marant autumn/winter 2013
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