Let's christen it fur faux-hair; the lightly gauzed, heavily brushed mohair presented by Giorgio Armani at his Emporio show this morning had a volume and rigidity that meant it sometimes seemed - as his notes observed - as if made of fur. Used in a pair of rounded V-back dresses, one violet, one blue, both sleeveless, with prettily ruffled skirts it was rather magnificent. In two extravagantly wide trousers it looked a more challenging wear. Both ways, it was an interesting innovation.
Stiffness, volume, and silhouette were Mr Armani's main preoccupations in this bold ode to the colours and textures of the East. Rich, dark, lightly checked velvet coats and jackets in burgundy and bottle green saw that famous Armani shoulder set itself in a new direction. Fur-scalped bath caps with gleaming teardrop clips, or brightly bejewelled bowlers and cloches were pitted against transparent gem-studded flats. Textured nuroprene - the second key material in this collection - was used for outrageously sculpted eveningwear.
This brand has the largest global footprint in Mr Armani's empire - 171 stores to Giorgio Armani's 81 - and next autumn's unpredictably lush, almost Orientalist-hazed collection should spark Emporio's many fans (guests today included Fergie - the singer - and Princess Elan-Margret zu Bentheim) to succumb to their in-store wanderlust.
SEE MORE FROM MILAN FASHION WEEK
Via: Milan Fashion Week: Emporio Armani autumn/winter 2013
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