"Austere but romantic," said Consuelo Castiglioni after her show this morning. That conjures up one figure as far as we're concerned: Jane Eyre. Teleport her to winter 2013, arm her with Mr Rochester's full panoply of credit cards, and she'd have a surreptitious splurge on Marni's knee high riding boots, calf length, gently flaring mohair checked skirts and belted jackets. Marni's flat brogues-with-everything approach would almost certainly get the Eyrian thumbs up, although being Victorian and from Yorkshire, Jane would probably have been baffled by their metallic panels. Rest assured Jane, a metallic brogue is very next season, but also a classic-in-the-making. Ergo thrifty.
IN PICTURES: Marni autumn/winter 2013
Marni has never done sexy, tight fitting clothes (assuming you think tight fitting is sexy), so the oversized rectangles and gentle ovoid shapes that are taking over fashion should play to its strengths. So it proved. Textures, fabrics and charm are this label's speciality: for winter think felted wools and fur slung all over the place, including those you don't really need it: hems and scarves that were worn with strapless dresses or silk shorts (what is this, displacement heat theory?).
Colours were very muted for Marni: charcoals, lovely bottle greens and lots of black. Contour-concealing tweeds, thigh length, collarless leather jackets and raglan sleeved, wide-lapelled coats all kept Marni on trend yet true to itself. This normally exuberant print house confined itself mainly to the silhouettes of bare trees that would have reminded Jane of Rochester Towers.
SEE MORE FROM MILAN FASHION WEEK
Via: Milan Fashion Week: Marni autumn/winter 2013
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